African cichlids, including Lake Malawi and Lake Tanganyika and Lake Victoria: The elongated cichlids from Lake Malawi are the most popular of African cichlids because they are colorful and hardy.
Lake Malawi cichlids (mbuna, or "rock fish" as the translation goes) are a fine beginner's choice.
Africans in general show a preference for hard, alkaline water; however, they are somewhat adaptable.
A pH of 7 would be acceptable, although a higher pH would be preferred.
Remember that for the average hobbyist, it is best to select fishes that can tolerate and adapt to their tap water's average pH instead of tinkering with these levels.
Buffering the pH naturally with the addition of crushed coral would be beneficial.
The use of "cichlid salts" to buffer the pH is optional, but likely to be beneficial.
Note that cichlids of all sorts (but especially mbuna) like mouthing and moving gravel, so keep this in mind when forming rock formations.
The African cichlid aquarium should consist of various rocky outcrops and retreats, such as layered flat rocks or rocks placed next to each other in such a way as to create caves and crevices.
This will give the fish a place to feel secure, and a territory to call their own.
With the right diet and high water quality, they may even spawn for you! African cichlids are mostly vegetarian in the wild, and thus thrive on a diet of Spirulina and vegetable flakes and pellets, as well as high quality cichlid pellets.
Wafers consisting of Spirulina and kelp are relished, and many African cichlids will accept vegetables and greens intended for human consumption, such as spinach, lettuce, zucchini, shelled cooked peas, and so forth.
Frozen foods should be occasionally offered - meaty foods such as bloodworm should be fed sparingly.
Vitamin fortified brine shrimp and daphnia add roughage, so can be used as more of a staple.
It's important to note that African cichlids do best in species aquariums, with other African cichlids.
Territorial and aggressive, they do not belong in typical freshwater community aquariums.
Cichlids from Lake Tanganyika and Lake Victoria require more specialized care, but have similar needs and preferences.
They vary in their body shape and length, some being torpedo-shaped, such as Julies, others being of considerable girth, such as Frontosas.
A few examples of Lake Malawi cichlids: Labeotropheus (Scrapermouth, Blue Mbuna, "Marmalade" color variants) Labidochromis caeruleus (Electric Yellow or Electric Blue) Melanochromis auratus (Golden Mbuna or Auratus, Blue Auratus) Metriaclima (Lombardoi or Kenyi) Pseudotropheus (i.
e.
Zebra, Powder Blue) A few examples of Lake Tanganyika cichlids: Neolamprologus and Altolamprologus (Brichardi, Compressiceps) Tropheus (Blunt or Blockhead, Dubosi) An example of a Lake Victoria cichlid: Haplochromis (Flameback, Nyere) American cichlids, including South and Central American cichlids: American cichlids include the popular Angelfish and Discus varieties.
American cichlids are so varied in body shape and constitution, their similarities are primarily in their habitats and water preferences.
In general, South American cichlids are longer and more deep-bodied than African cichlids, with the exception of Dwarf South American cichlids such as Apistogramma.
Unlike African cichlids, South American cichlids favor soft, acidic water with a pH below 7.
The addition of bogwood, driftwood, and/or peat to the aquarium helps acidify the water naturally.
Live plants help with nitrification, and also drive pH down gradually by adding humic acids to the water, sometimes staining the water the color of tea.
Certain substrates for live plants will also acidify the water.
South American cichlids have different dietary requirements among them.
Live foods such as blood, black and white worm, insect larvae, and daphnia are universally relished.
Oscars and other robust South Americans are especially fond of chopped earthworms.
A balanced flake or pellet diet, supplemented with fresh and frozen food is recommended for optimum health and color.
Human consumption vegetables and greens are accepted by many species.
Certain South Americans, such as Discus, savor treats of beef heart.
Feed sparingly, if at all.
Research the care requirements of each species carefully.
While a South American cichlid biotope or community is certainly attainable, inhabitants should be chosen carefully to prevent aggression and crowding.
As with all cichlids, a South American aquarium should be heavily filtered to compensate for their messy eating habits.
A few examples of South and Central American cichlids: Apistogramma (i.
e.
Agassiz Dwarf, Cockatoo Dwarf) Archocentrus nigrofasciatus (Convict) Astronotus ocellatus (Oscar) Cichlasoma cyanoguttatum (Texas or Rio Grande) Cichlasoma octofasciatum (Jack Dempsey) Heros severus (Severum) Microgeophagus (i.
e.
Blue Ram, Bolivian Ram) Pterophyllum (Angelfish, Altum Angelfish) Symphysodon (Discus) Thorichthys meeki (Firemouth) Recommended Websites: http://www.
wetwebmedia.
com/FWSubWebIndex/cichlids.
htm
Lake Malawi cichlids (mbuna, or "rock fish" as the translation goes) are a fine beginner's choice.
Africans in general show a preference for hard, alkaline water; however, they are somewhat adaptable.
A pH of 7 would be acceptable, although a higher pH would be preferred.
Remember that for the average hobbyist, it is best to select fishes that can tolerate and adapt to their tap water's average pH instead of tinkering with these levels.
Buffering the pH naturally with the addition of crushed coral would be beneficial.
The use of "cichlid salts" to buffer the pH is optional, but likely to be beneficial.
Note that cichlids of all sorts (but especially mbuna) like mouthing and moving gravel, so keep this in mind when forming rock formations.
The African cichlid aquarium should consist of various rocky outcrops and retreats, such as layered flat rocks or rocks placed next to each other in such a way as to create caves and crevices.
This will give the fish a place to feel secure, and a territory to call their own.
With the right diet and high water quality, they may even spawn for you! African cichlids are mostly vegetarian in the wild, and thus thrive on a diet of Spirulina and vegetable flakes and pellets, as well as high quality cichlid pellets.
Wafers consisting of Spirulina and kelp are relished, and many African cichlids will accept vegetables and greens intended for human consumption, such as spinach, lettuce, zucchini, shelled cooked peas, and so forth.
Frozen foods should be occasionally offered - meaty foods such as bloodworm should be fed sparingly.
Vitamin fortified brine shrimp and daphnia add roughage, so can be used as more of a staple.
It's important to note that African cichlids do best in species aquariums, with other African cichlids.
Territorial and aggressive, they do not belong in typical freshwater community aquariums.
Cichlids from Lake Tanganyika and Lake Victoria require more specialized care, but have similar needs and preferences.
They vary in their body shape and length, some being torpedo-shaped, such as Julies, others being of considerable girth, such as Frontosas.
A few examples of Lake Malawi cichlids: Labeotropheus (Scrapermouth, Blue Mbuna, "Marmalade" color variants) Labidochromis caeruleus (Electric Yellow or Electric Blue) Melanochromis auratus (Golden Mbuna or Auratus, Blue Auratus) Metriaclima (Lombardoi or Kenyi) Pseudotropheus (i.
e.
Zebra, Powder Blue) A few examples of Lake Tanganyika cichlids: Neolamprologus and Altolamprologus (Brichardi, Compressiceps) Tropheus (Blunt or Blockhead, Dubosi) An example of a Lake Victoria cichlid: Haplochromis (Flameback, Nyere) American cichlids, including South and Central American cichlids: American cichlids include the popular Angelfish and Discus varieties.
American cichlids are so varied in body shape and constitution, their similarities are primarily in their habitats and water preferences.
In general, South American cichlids are longer and more deep-bodied than African cichlids, with the exception of Dwarf South American cichlids such as Apistogramma.
Unlike African cichlids, South American cichlids favor soft, acidic water with a pH below 7.
The addition of bogwood, driftwood, and/or peat to the aquarium helps acidify the water naturally.
Live plants help with nitrification, and also drive pH down gradually by adding humic acids to the water, sometimes staining the water the color of tea.
Certain substrates for live plants will also acidify the water.
South American cichlids have different dietary requirements among them.
Live foods such as blood, black and white worm, insect larvae, and daphnia are universally relished.
Oscars and other robust South Americans are especially fond of chopped earthworms.
A balanced flake or pellet diet, supplemented with fresh and frozen food is recommended for optimum health and color.
Human consumption vegetables and greens are accepted by many species.
Certain South Americans, such as Discus, savor treats of beef heart.
Feed sparingly, if at all.
Research the care requirements of each species carefully.
While a South American cichlid biotope or community is certainly attainable, inhabitants should be chosen carefully to prevent aggression and crowding.
As with all cichlids, a South American aquarium should be heavily filtered to compensate for their messy eating habits.
A few examples of South and Central American cichlids: Apistogramma (i.
e.
Agassiz Dwarf, Cockatoo Dwarf) Archocentrus nigrofasciatus (Convict) Astronotus ocellatus (Oscar) Cichlasoma cyanoguttatum (Texas or Rio Grande) Cichlasoma octofasciatum (Jack Dempsey) Heros severus (Severum) Microgeophagus (i.
e.
Blue Ram, Bolivian Ram) Pterophyllum (Angelfish, Altum Angelfish) Symphysodon (Discus) Thorichthys meeki (Firemouth) Recommended Websites: http://www.
wetwebmedia.
com/FWSubWebIndex/cichlids.
htm