This is a very condensed glossary of terms used often in the antique jewelry industry. Not only should you familiarize yourself with these terms if you have interest in the field, you should also learn about the different design eras we use to describe jewelry. It's also important to know the difference between what is considered estate, vintage, and antique.
Camphor glass is often seen in jewelry from the 1920's. It is a frosted glass made to look like rock crystal quartz by treating it with hydrofluoric acid. Oftentimes this glass would be set in filigree mountings cast in sterling silver, white gold, or platinum. The glass itself usually has a star burst pattern etched into the back side and a diamond inset into the center of the piece.
This type of design is also sometimes referred to as filigree because both have very intricate detailing. Fine wiring or sheets of gold are wound into very delicate designs, creating various circles and swirls. Jewelry with cannetille work was common in the early 1800's, but can also be seen on Art Deco jewelry, though the designs are not nearly as fine.
Châtelaines were a very practical form of jewelry popular from the 17th to 20th centuries. The top consists of a brooch or clip that has various chains hanging off of it, each with its own decorative tool or charm at the end of the chain. Pocket knives, mirrors, scissors, sewing needles, and perfume holders were some of the most common tools found. These were usually made of gold or silver.
Enamel is a form of glass that when heated to a certain temperature, forms a liquid that can be applied to different metals. This is an important term to know because some of the finest estate jewelry has very intricate enamel work.
Festoon necklaces are commonly identified by a necklace that has a lot of different drops with varying motifs as well as chains that loop throughout the necklace. Festoon comes from the Latin word festo meaning feast. These necklaces were very popular during the Art Nouveau Era.
Filigree is a technique of attaching thin pieces of metal together to create very intricate patterns. This type of design became very popular in the 1920's and 1930's when they perfected a method of casting that created very light and airy designs.
Gold filled jewelry was very popular in the Victorian Era and through to modern day. Gold filled jewelry has much more gold content than gold plated jewelry, because gold filled is a process of adding a thick sheet of metal to base metal. This process is also known as rolled gold. The gold in a gold filled piece must be at least 1/20th of the entire piece, though a lot of Victorian jewelry contains much more gold than this.
This type of necklace was very popular around 1900. It consists of a single drop off a chain that has a very dainty and open feel, commonly accented with a pearl drop at the bottom.
This is one of the most popular diamond cuts you see from the 1890's through the 1920's. They characteristically are round in shape and have open culets with smaller tables and deeper pavillions than the modern round brilliant cut diamond.
This is a type of enamel work that was popular during the Art Nouveau era. Authentic pieces exhibiting this beautiful detail often command large price tags. Plique-à-Jour enameling is transparent and during the Art Nouveau period was often rendered into motifs inspired by nature, i.e. leaves, wings, flowers, etc.
1. Camphor Glass
Camphor glass is often seen in jewelry from the 1920's. It is a frosted glass made to look like rock crystal quartz by treating it with hydrofluoric acid. Oftentimes this glass would be set in filigree mountings cast in sterling silver, white gold, or platinum. The glass itself usually has a star burst pattern etched into the back side and a diamond inset into the center of the piece.
2. Cannetille
This type of design is also sometimes referred to as filigree because both have very intricate detailing. Fine wiring or sheets of gold are wound into very delicate designs, creating various circles and swirls. Jewelry with cannetille work was common in the early 1800's, but can also be seen on Art Deco jewelry, though the designs are not nearly as fine.
3. Chatelaine
Châtelaines were a very practical form of jewelry popular from the 17th to 20th centuries. The top consists of a brooch or clip that has various chains hanging off of it, each with its own decorative tool or charm at the end of the chain. Pocket knives, mirrors, scissors, sewing needles, and perfume holders were some of the most common tools found. These were usually made of gold or silver.
4. Enamel
Enamel is a form of glass that when heated to a certain temperature, forms a liquid that can be applied to different metals. This is an important term to know because some of the finest estate jewelry has very intricate enamel work.
5. Festoon
Festoon necklaces are commonly identified by a necklace that has a lot of different drops with varying motifs as well as chains that loop throughout the necklace. Festoon comes from the Latin word festo meaning feast. These necklaces were very popular during the Art Nouveau Era.
6. Filigree
Filigree is a technique of attaching thin pieces of metal together to create very intricate patterns. This type of design became very popular in the 1920's and 1930's when they perfected a method of casting that created very light and airy designs.
7. Gold Filled
Gold filled jewelry was very popular in the Victorian Era and through to modern day. Gold filled jewelry has much more gold content than gold plated jewelry, because gold filled is a process of adding a thick sheet of metal to base metal. This process is also known as rolled gold. The gold in a gold filled piece must be at least 1/20th of the entire piece, though a lot of Victorian jewelry contains much more gold than this.
8. Lavaliere
This type of necklace was very popular around 1900. It consists of a single drop off a chain that has a very dainty and open feel, commonly accented with a pearl drop at the bottom.
9. Old European Cut
This is one of the most popular diamond cuts you see from the 1890's through the 1920's. They characteristically are round in shape and have open culets with smaller tables and deeper pavillions than the modern round brilliant cut diamond.
10. Plique-a-Jour
This is a type of enamel work that was popular during the Art Nouveau era. Authentic pieces exhibiting this beautiful detail often command large price tags. Plique-à-Jour enameling is transparent and during the Art Nouveau period was often rendered into motifs inspired by nature, i.e. leaves, wings, flowers, etc.