If you want to make a sweater without a pattern, we can thank Elizabeth Zimmermann for figuring out our proportions.
Elizabeth's Percentage System lays out a formula that compares how many stitches you need for body, sleeves, neck width and so on.
Here's how you do percent patterns in five steps.
Step 1: Swatch Don't cuss.
How else will you ever know how large your sweater will be or how many stitches you need? Grab yarn you love more than air, needles that might work with your yarn in comfort, and cast on 30 stitches.
Knit while you dream of your sweater's special charms.
When your swatch is sort of square, lay a ruler across it.
Count how many stitches and partial stitches you have in two or three inches at the center.
What did you get? That's your gauge.
For super accuracy, wash and dry your swatch as you will your sweater, then measure again.
Don't ignore partial stitches.
They add up and must be counted or your sweater won't fit.
Step 2: Measure Your Favorite Sweater Yes, one in a similar weight to your would-be sweater, one you always wear.
Why? Because it has the amount of ease or wiggle room you like best.
Lay it out flat and measure across the widest part, usually the chest.
Multiply this number of inches by your gauge.
This gives you the number of stitches you need at your chest.
It's your key number.
Also measure the sleeve and body length so you know how long to knit your sweater.
Step 3: Swatch Cap If you'll knit a pattern in your sweater that might change your gauge--like cables, ribbing, or twisted stitches--cast on half your key number of stitches and knit in the round for about 8 inches.
Did you switch up a needle size so it would fit your head? Then you must do so with your sweater.
Better you find out now, instead of halfway or more up your sweater.
Decrease your tube, finish it off, then wear your hat with pride as proof your sweater will work.
Step 4: Figure Your Numbers * Bottom of sweater, either 100% of your key number or 90% if you want ribbing.
* Bottom of sleeve, 20-25% of your key number, gradually increased to 35-40% for upper arms.
* Put 8% of sleeve stitches at underarm onto waste yarn or holder.
* Put same number of stitches at each side of body onto waste yarn or holder.
* Yoke depth is about 25% of sweater circumference (in a 40-inch sweater, a yoke is about 10 inches deep).
Decrease in three rounds evenly spaced between underarm and neck, 1/4th, then 1/3rd, then 2/5ths of the stitches.
You want 40% of your key number left for your neckline.
Step 5: Knit! Cast on your bottom stitches, either ribbed or not, as you please.
Work body to underarms.
Cast on your sleeves, either ribbed or not, increase until you have the desired number of stitches, then knit your preferred length.
Unite sleeves to body and work yoke to neckline, with or without a pattern, with whatever neckline you might like.
This is how you do a percent pattern for a long-sleeve raglan.
For other styles and more details, check Elizabeth Zimmermann's last book, The Opinionated Knitter.
It has her most updated version of EPS complete with charts.
Happy knitting!
Elizabeth's Percentage System lays out a formula that compares how many stitches you need for body, sleeves, neck width and so on.
Here's how you do percent patterns in five steps.
Step 1: Swatch Don't cuss.
How else will you ever know how large your sweater will be or how many stitches you need? Grab yarn you love more than air, needles that might work with your yarn in comfort, and cast on 30 stitches.
Knit while you dream of your sweater's special charms.
When your swatch is sort of square, lay a ruler across it.
Count how many stitches and partial stitches you have in two or three inches at the center.
What did you get? That's your gauge.
For super accuracy, wash and dry your swatch as you will your sweater, then measure again.
Don't ignore partial stitches.
They add up and must be counted or your sweater won't fit.
Step 2: Measure Your Favorite Sweater Yes, one in a similar weight to your would-be sweater, one you always wear.
Why? Because it has the amount of ease or wiggle room you like best.
Lay it out flat and measure across the widest part, usually the chest.
Multiply this number of inches by your gauge.
This gives you the number of stitches you need at your chest.
It's your key number.
Also measure the sleeve and body length so you know how long to knit your sweater.
Step 3: Swatch Cap If you'll knit a pattern in your sweater that might change your gauge--like cables, ribbing, or twisted stitches--cast on half your key number of stitches and knit in the round for about 8 inches.
Did you switch up a needle size so it would fit your head? Then you must do so with your sweater.
Better you find out now, instead of halfway or more up your sweater.
Decrease your tube, finish it off, then wear your hat with pride as proof your sweater will work.
Step 4: Figure Your Numbers * Bottom of sweater, either 100% of your key number or 90% if you want ribbing.
* Bottom of sleeve, 20-25% of your key number, gradually increased to 35-40% for upper arms.
* Put 8% of sleeve stitches at underarm onto waste yarn or holder.
* Put same number of stitches at each side of body onto waste yarn or holder.
* Yoke depth is about 25% of sweater circumference (in a 40-inch sweater, a yoke is about 10 inches deep).
Decrease in three rounds evenly spaced between underarm and neck, 1/4th, then 1/3rd, then 2/5ths of the stitches.
You want 40% of your key number left for your neckline.
Step 5: Knit! Cast on your bottom stitches, either ribbed or not, as you please.
Work body to underarms.
Cast on your sleeves, either ribbed or not, increase until you have the desired number of stitches, then knit your preferred length.
Unite sleeves to body and work yoke to neckline, with or without a pattern, with whatever neckline you might like.
This is how you do a percent pattern for a long-sleeve raglan.
For other styles and more details, check Elizabeth Zimmermann's last book, The Opinionated Knitter.
It has her most updated version of EPS complete with charts.
Happy knitting!