Roast Pork & Pork-Roasted Duck: Porchetta & Anatra in Porchetta

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Roast Pork & Pork-Roasted Duck: Porchetta is a roast pig, an ideal picnic food and also quite good as part of a festive, though not tremendously elegant, meal. Larger pigs, roasted the same way, are sliced to stuff sandwiches in fairs.

See Also

Another Tuscan spit-roasted pig

Going Whole Hog: An old fashioned Pig Picking

Roasting a Piglet, Illustrated

Ingredients
  • A boned pig (it will be easiest to have your butcher do the boning; leave the skull, and (if you want) the tail)
  • Garlic (see below for quantities of the herbs
  • Onions
  • Rosemary
  • Bay leaves
  • Salt and pepper to taste
  • Mixed spices
  • Olive oil
  • A large oven, and if you have a wood-fired oven it would be perfect


Preparation
Continuing with the introduction, Anatra in porchetta is a duck roasted the same way one roasts a pig, and since it is much smaller, it is suited for smaller groups.

Arezzo's porchetta is an institution, and no fair or festive gathering would be complete without it. In general, those for family gatherings are made from young animals weighing less than 45 pounds (20 k) and in some cases the animal is considerably smaller.

Clean the pig, scalding and scraping its hide, and fill the cavity with a goodly amount of garlic, onion, and rosemary, a few bay leaves, and season everything well with salt and pepper before you sew the cavity shut. Some cooks also add a pinch of the spice mixture commonly used in making salami, which consists of cloves, coriander seed, nutmeg and of course black pepper. The rough proportions are 1/6 cloves, 2/6 black pepper, 2/6 coriander, and 1/6 nutmeg, though this will vary from cook to cook because each does things slightly differently. Finally, to keep the porchetta from drying out rub it with abundant olive oil.

The pig is attached to a pole that functions as a spit and oven roasted, at a temperature that's not too high -- 320-350 F, 160-175 C. Some cooks baste their pigs with red wine, thus cooling the outer layers, preventing the fat from rendering out, which would make the meat dry. The roasting should proceed slowly (depending upon the weight of the pig, up to 5 hours), and will be done when the skin has assumed a rich hazelnut shade of brown, while the meat inside is still very faintly pink.

To tell when the meat inside is done, stick the porchetta with a clean wooden skewer; it should emerge as white as it was when it went in, without the slightest trace of blood, which would mean raw meat.

Put a large roasting pan under the pig to catch the drippings, and fill it with finely sliced onions and potatoes, which will work perfectly as a side dish.

The wine? A zesty red, for example a Chianti d'Annata or a Carmignano, or Carmignano's Barco Reale in a picnic.

The Duck, You Wonder?

Roasting a pig requires a special occasion. For fewer people you can roast a duck in the same way, at which point you'll have Anatra in Porchetta:

In modern day homes, it is quite difficult to prepare a sumptuous porchetta that requires time, a large oven, and many mouths to feed. Though it may be appropriate for a festive gathering (especially a picnic), many modern cooks will find roasting a porchetta close to impossible.

Ducks are viable alternatives: their savory, fat-laced meats are in some ways similar to pork, and this means they can take the place of porchetta with considerable success. Goose, especially white goose, is also ideally suited for this. A large bird is necessary, and after cleaning it flame the carcass to remove all traces of pinfeathers, using tweezers to pull them if need be. Stuff the bird with abundant diced prosciutto, and if it's sausage season (the fall in Italy) crumble in a couple of links of mild Italian sausage as well, together with the herb mixture given above, adding a few leaves of sage and rosemary for more flavor. Sew the bird shut.

Next, season a couple of thick slices of lard with abundant pepper, and tie them around the bird, slipping a couple of bay leaves between fat and bird. Baste with olive oil and put the bird on a rack in the oven, or on a spit in front of the coals. The roasting should take place at a low temperature (320-350 F, 16-175 C), and will require a couple of hours or more (the juices from a skewer thrust into the wing joint will run clear). Use a pan to catch the drippings, and stir a glass of red wine into them before you add some sliced potatoes, which will make an ideal accompaniment. If you are turning the duck on a spit, bast it occasionally with a 50-50 mixture of red wine and oil.

This dish requires a tossed green salad, preferably with tomatoes and celery too, to which a few leaves of fresh mint have been added, while the potatoes should be dusted with freshly minced thyme.

The wine? A light, zesty red, for example a Chianti d'Annata.

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