Day 1: The Drive, Caverns, and a Necessary Splurge
June brings with it many wonderful things: sunshine, Frisbee, twisty cones after supper, and an excuse to exclusively wear flip flops. For me, it brought the camping itch. I became restless and started seeking a weekend getaway away from city life.
With three days off from work (added to the weekend) I looked for a park that offered great hikes, affordable camping, possibilities for wildlife sightings, and easy accessibility by car.
I found all that and more at Shenandoah National Park in Front Royal, VA. The trip began with some iffy weather but ended with over 300 pictures of unbelievable landscapes, historic buildings, adorable wildlife, and strenuous trails. Check out the itinerary and highlights of my trip; perhaps it will help shape your own trip to Shenandoah National Park.
Day 1, Continued
As luck would have it I woke up with a sore throat and on the fence of a cold. But no amount of germs was going to get in the way of this trip. I loaded up on cough drops and vitamins and hit the road. With me was my boyfriend, Tim, who was fully prepared with travel mugs full of coffee, a route mapped out, and an iPod of our favorite road trip songs. Driving out of Manhattan is never the quickest route, but we were on the highway by 8 a.m.
We made a few pit stops but made it to Front Royal by early afternoon. Unfortunately what greeted us were storm clouds, fog, and buckets of rain. What to do? Attempting to waste some time, we hit a local grocery store to get food for the weekend, and then grabbed lunch at a McDonald's across the street – I like to use road trips as my opportunity to splurge on fast food. Once finished it became apparent that the rain was not about to stop. We decided rather than setting up camp in the mud and rain, why not enjoy some local tour options. I saw sign on the way in about caverns nearby and it seemed fitting that if we couldn't enjoy the park due to weather, we may as well explore the attractions underground.
Skyline Caverns is located just one mile from the Northern Entrance of Shenandoah National Park and is an underground maze of amazing rock formations. We took a guided tour by a funny and knowledgeable guide named Titus who explained that the caverns were first discovered by Walter S.
Amos in 1937. He showed us underground formations – speleotherms - that had been undisturbed for 60 million years! It was pretty wild and an unexpected treat. Honestly, it turned out to be a great way to spend an hour and a half.
Day 2: Still Raining
After our lovely tour of the underground we forged on, trying to enjoy the scenic drive of Skyline Drive which follows the crest of the Blue Ridge Mountains for 105 miles. With 75 scenic overlooks, it is the perfect way to travel throughout the park. It also turned out to be a great way to check out the local wildlife. Within the first five miles, I had seen deer and even a wild turkey.
But alas, the weather was not on our side.
Massive blankets of fog covered the mountains and even the road, making for a very slow drive. The rain proceeded to the point where we had to pull over and make a game-time decision: Do we camp?
Nope. With a head cold lingering and rain and chilly weather continuing, we decided to book one night at Big Meadows Lodge. Though it was a financial splurge I hadn't anticipated, at $98 it turned out to be a great decision. Not only was the room, cozy and warm, we had a fabulous dinner in the lodge’s restaurant (get the meatloaf!), played checkers by a fire in the lodge's great room, and enjoyed the free live music at the bar. It was a great ending to day one.
Day 3: Backcountry!
We awoke to the same crummy weather, if not worse. Rain and fog were everywhere so we needed to make the best of it. After a sub-par breakfast (my only complaint of Big Meadows Lodge) we decided to make the best of it and take a short hike. Dark Hollow Falls Trail was a perfect easy hike to explore the area. At 1.4 miles round trip, the trail showcased a lush forest full of wildflowers, deer, and a stunning 70 foot waterfall.
Though the rain continued it was bearable. The temperature outside was still in the high 50’s and the rain felt more like a steady sprinkle. And after the Dark Hollow Falls, we were ready for another hike. We decided to explore Rapidan Camp, the summer home of President Herbert Hoover and First Lady Loud Hoover.
We parked at Milam Cap Parking and began the 4 mile round trip hike. It was a moderate hike so I made sure to pack some water and a snack for when we arrived. Along the way we enjoyed more deer, a lively forest buzzing with insects and birds chirping, and three stream crossings. And once we arrived we found a helpful ranger who was about to give a tour of the grounds. It was pretty awesome to be standing on the porch that a former President once stood. We also enjoyed a self-guided tour of the Prime Minister’s cabin – named for Prime Minister Ramsey MacDonald stayed frequently.
We hiked out of Rapidan, enjoying the same lush forest on the way out, and decided to head to Loft Mountain campgrounds for the night.
The weather was improving slightly (no rain) but it remained windy and foggy all night. Turns out wind is a wonderful component in making a great fire! We cooked up some burgers, enjoyed our first S’mores of the weekend, and enjoyed the night. There is nothing quite like sitting around the fire at camp.
Day 3, Continued
We awoke to sunshine! The storms had passed and moving in was nothing but warm temperatures and gorgeous weather. We knew we wanted to get in some backcountry camping so we decided to make breakfast (bagels with cream cheese and Egg Beaters – who says you can’t make an omelet in the woods?) and pack up camp. With the car packed up, we popped by the showers (coin operated) to wash up before our big day.
Before we set out on the trail, we made sure we had our backcountry permit in hand. It was free and super easy to obtain – available at any Visitor Center in the park. Our packs were stuffed with all necessary items: tent, sleeping bags, ground mats, Firefly portable grill, dry clothes, headlamps, mess kit, First Aid kit, trail mix, and water.
We parked the car at the Riprap Trail parking lot, loaded our packs on our backs, and took to the trail!
Day 4: All Uphill From Here
Round trip on the Riprap Trail would be 9.8 miles so we decided to hike about 4.5 to 5 miles down to a river area where a ranger told us it would be easy to spot some areas that had been flatted out by previous backcountry campers. The hike down was beautiful! One of the most amazing things about Shenandoah National Park is that no matter where you are in the woods, no matter what trail you find yourself on, you feel miles away from everything.
All around are stunning, luscious, bright trees buzzing with life. Sunlight pours in cracks between branches creating an undeniably peaceful surrounding. It was truly a great hike.
After a few river crossings, we came to a spot that had not only been used previously but it was one of the best spots I have ever camped. I surveyed the land and found an area perfect for the tent – flat, dry, protected by trees; and area perfect for cooking – 20 feet away from our tent (remember this is bear country) with rocks set up in a circle like seats; and even the perfect tree to store our food – in the backcountry, you must either keep food and garbage in a bear tin or tie it all up in a tree. On one side of the site was a babbling river – one of the most relaxing sounds to fall asleep to – and on the other was a flat area to play Frisbee followed by a rocky mountain full of stunning trees.
The night was perfect. The weather was comfortable – high 70’s when we arrived and a cool 40’s when we went to bed.
We made jambalaya (Zatarains rice mix with sliced kielbasa – trust me, it is delicious!), tied up our food, changed into fresh clothes, and slipped into the tent once the sun went down. (Remember, most parks do not allow open fires in backcountry so it’s important to plan around the sun setting.)
I awoke to the sounds of a river flow, birds chirping, and more sunny weather. After a great night’s sleep I was ready for breakfast. And then I realized the one thing I forgot to pack. A lighter. As a guide to national and state parks I felt embarrassed, even ashamed. How could I forget?! I looked to Tim. He was already working on starting the Firefly with the matches he always brings. Unfortunately, the woods were damp and moisture is an enemy when it comes to lighting a match.
We couldn’t even get a spark.
So rather than a hot cup of coffee we settled on bagels and water, packed up our site, and got ready for our big hike out.
The hike back to the car could be summed up easily in one word: difficult. Many other words do come to mind though: exhausting, sweaty, strenuous. I estimate it was a little over 5.5 miles completely uphill. In fact, it was almost impossible to find a flat area to stop and rest – we always ended up sitting half on the trail, half slouched on the hill.
This part of the Riprap Trail was my least favorite, and not because it was all uphill or a challenge. Honestly it was pretty forgettable. We were surrounded by such a dense forest the entire time, with no overlooks, no places to rest, and no change of scenery. Sure I felt accomplished when I made it back to the parking lot, but I could barely picture the trail in my mind once I was back behind the wheel.
Wiped out from our big hike, we drove Skyline Drive to Big Meadows Campground. Finally able to see the stunning landscapes not covered by fog was the perfect distraction to how much my feet ached. We arrived at Big Meadows, paid a $20 camping fee, and searched for the perfect site. The layout wasn’t my scene, with so many drive up sites where your car is literally next to your tent. But we found some sites where you parked your car and then walked a short trail to camp sites.
Ours was perfect. We were not right on top of people camping next to us, had a great view of the woods behind us, and yet were convenient to the car and bathrooms.
We set up camp, crawled into the tent, and enjoyed a much-needed two hour nap!
Awake and refreshed, we showered (coin-operated) and popped into the camp store for firewood, beer, and chocolate bars – a typical camping spree! For dinner we decided to roast hot dogs over the open fire, my personal choice for the last camping supper. Once we got all the necessary items, we got back in the car to head to our site when we noticed a car pulled over and a woman outside taking photos.
We slowed down and I peered up a hill to see what she was admiring. Then I saw it: a mama bear and three baby cubs! It was the most spectacular thing I have seen yet in the wild.
The last night was yet another beautiful night full of stars, S’mores, and a great campfire. It was the perfect ending to an all-around fantastic trip. Shenandoah National Park turned out to be a must-see destination offering so much to its visitors. Wildlife? Got it. Stunning views? There are so many to choose from! Serenity on a gorgeous, isolated trail? They all have it! No matter what you are looking for, this Virginia national park is ready to deliver. It is a great spot for families, couples, friends, and any individual looking for a positive getaway.
June brings with it many wonderful things: sunshine, Frisbee, twisty cones after supper, and an excuse to exclusively wear flip flops. For me, it brought the camping itch. I became restless and started seeking a weekend getaway away from city life.
With three days off from work (added to the weekend) I looked for a park that offered great hikes, affordable camping, possibilities for wildlife sightings, and easy accessibility by car.
I found all that and more at Shenandoah National Park in Front Royal, VA. The trip began with some iffy weather but ended with over 300 pictures of unbelievable landscapes, historic buildings, adorable wildlife, and strenuous trails. Check out the itinerary and highlights of my trip; perhaps it will help shape your own trip to Shenandoah National Park.
Day 1, Continued
As luck would have it I woke up with a sore throat and on the fence of a cold. But no amount of germs was going to get in the way of this trip. I loaded up on cough drops and vitamins and hit the road. With me was my boyfriend, Tim, who was fully prepared with travel mugs full of coffee, a route mapped out, and an iPod of our favorite road trip songs. Driving out of Manhattan is never the quickest route, but we were on the highway by 8 a.m.
We made a few pit stops but made it to Front Royal by early afternoon. Unfortunately what greeted us were storm clouds, fog, and buckets of rain. What to do? Attempting to waste some time, we hit a local grocery store to get food for the weekend, and then grabbed lunch at a McDonald's across the street – I like to use road trips as my opportunity to splurge on fast food. Once finished it became apparent that the rain was not about to stop. We decided rather than setting up camp in the mud and rain, why not enjoy some local tour options. I saw sign on the way in about caverns nearby and it seemed fitting that if we couldn't enjoy the park due to weather, we may as well explore the attractions underground.
Skyline Caverns
Skyline Caverns is located just one mile from the Northern Entrance of Shenandoah National Park and is an underground maze of amazing rock formations. We took a guided tour by a funny and knowledgeable guide named Titus who explained that the caverns were first discovered by Walter S.
Amos in 1937. He showed us underground formations – speleotherms - that had been undisturbed for 60 million years! It was pretty wild and an unexpected treat. Honestly, it turned out to be a great way to spend an hour and a half.
Day 2: Still Raining
After our lovely tour of the underground we forged on, trying to enjoy the scenic drive of Skyline Drive which follows the crest of the Blue Ridge Mountains for 105 miles. With 75 scenic overlooks, it is the perfect way to travel throughout the park. It also turned out to be a great way to check out the local wildlife. Within the first five miles, I had seen deer and even a wild turkey.
But alas, the weather was not on our side.
Massive blankets of fog covered the mountains and even the road, making for a very slow drive. The rain proceeded to the point where we had to pull over and make a game-time decision: Do we camp?
Nope. With a head cold lingering and rain and chilly weather continuing, we decided to book one night at Big Meadows Lodge. Though it was a financial splurge I hadn't anticipated, at $98 it turned out to be a great decision. Not only was the room, cozy and warm, we had a fabulous dinner in the lodge’s restaurant (get the meatloaf!), played checkers by a fire in the lodge's great room, and enjoyed the free live music at the bar. It was a great ending to day one.
Day 3: Backcountry!
We awoke to the same crummy weather, if not worse. Rain and fog were everywhere so we needed to make the best of it. After a sub-par breakfast (my only complaint of Big Meadows Lodge) we decided to make the best of it and take a short hike. Dark Hollow Falls Trail was a perfect easy hike to explore the area. At 1.4 miles round trip, the trail showcased a lush forest full of wildflowers, deer, and a stunning 70 foot waterfall.
Rapidan Camp
Though the rain continued it was bearable. The temperature outside was still in the high 50’s and the rain felt more like a steady sprinkle. And after the Dark Hollow Falls, we were ready for another hike. We decided to explore Rapidan Camp, the summer home of President Herbert Hoover and First Lady Loud Hoover.
We parked at Milam Cap Parking and began the 4 mile round trip hike. It was a moderate hike so I made sure to pack some water and a snack for when we arrived. Along the way we enjoyed more deer, a lively forest buzzing with insects and birds chirping, and three stream crossings. And once we arrived we found a helpful ranger who was about to give a tour of the grounds. It was pretty awesome to be standing on the porch that a former President once stood. We also enjoyed a self-guided tour of the Prime Minister’s cabin – named for Prime Minister Ramsey MacDonald stayed frequently.
We hiked out of Rapidan, enjoying the same lush forest on the way out, and decided to head to Loft Mountain campgrounds for the night.
The weather was improving slightly (no rain) but it remained windy and foggy all night. Turns out wind is a wonderful component in making a great fire! We cooked up some burgers, enjoyed our first S’mores of the weekend, and enjoyed the night. There is nothing quite like sitting around the fire at camp.
Day 3, Continued
We awoke to sunshine! The storms had passed and moving in was nothing but warm temperatures and gorgeous weather. We knew we wanted to get in some backcountry camping so we decided to make breakfast (bagels with cream cheese and Egg Beaters – who says you can’t make an omelet in the woods?) and pack up camp. With the car packed up, we popped by the showers (coin operated) to wash up before our big day.
Before we set out on the trail, we made sure we had our backcountry permit in hand. It was free and super easy to obtain – available at any Visitor Center in the park. Our packs were stuffed with all necessary items: tent, sleeping bags, ground mats, Firefly portable grill, dry clothes, headlamps, mess kit, First Aid kit, trail mix, and water.
We parked the car at the Riprap Trail parking lot, loaded our packs on our backs, and took to the trail!
Day 4: All Uphill From Here
Round trip on the Riprap Trail would be 9.8 miles so we decided to hike about 4.5 to 5 miles down to a river area where a ranger told us it would be easy to spot some areas that had been flatted out by previous backcountry campers. The hike down was beautiful! One of the most amazing things about Shenandoah National Park is that no matter where you are in the woods, no matter what trail you find yourself on, you feel miles away from everything.
All around are stunning, luscious, bright trees buzzing with life. Sunlight pours in cracks between branches creating an undeniably peaceful surrounding. It was truly a great hike.
After a few river crossings, we came to a spot that had not only been used previously but it was one of the best spots I have ever camped. I surveyed the land and found an area perfect for the tent – flat, dry, protected by trees; and area perfect for cooking – 20 feet away from our tent (remember this is bear country) with rocks set up in a circle like seats; and even the perfect tree to store our food – in the backcountry, you must either keep food and garbage in a bear tin or tie it all up in a tree. On one side of the site was a babbling river – one of the most relaxing sounds to fall asleep to – and on the other was a flat area to play Frisbee followed by a rocky mountain full of stunning trees.
The night was perfect. The weather was comfortable – high 70’s when we arrived and a cool 40’s when we went to bed.
We made jambalaya (Zatarains rice mix with sliced kielbasa – trust me, it is delicious!), tied up our food, changed into fresh clothes, and slipped into the tent once the sun went down. (Remember, most parks do not allow open fires in backcountry so it’s important to plan around the sun setting.)
I awoke to the sounds of a river flow, birds chirping, and more sunny weather. After a great night’s sleep I was ready for breakfast. And then I realized the one thing I forgot to pack. A lighter. As a guide to national and state parks I felt embarrassed, even ashamed. How could I forget?! I looked to Tim. He was already working on starting the Firefly with the matches he always brings. Unfortunately, the woods were damp and moisture is an enemy when it comes to lighting a match.
We couldn’t even get a spark.
So rather than a hot cup of coffee we settled on bagels and water, packed up our site, and got ready for our big hike out.
The hike back to the car could be summed up easily in one word: difficult. Many other words do come to mind though: exhausting, sweaty, strenuous. I estimate it was a little over 5.5 miles completely uphill. In fact, it was almost impossible to find a flat area to stop and rest – we always ended up sitting half on the trail, half slouched on the hill.
This part of the Riprap Trail was my least favorite, and not because it was all uphill or a challenge. Honestly it was pretty forgettable. We were surrounded by such a dense forest the entire time, with no overlooks, no places to rest, and no change of scenery. Sure I felt accomplished when I made it back to the parking lot, but I could barely picture the trail in my mind once I was back behind the wheel.
Wiped out from our big hike, we drove Skyline Drive to Big Meadows Campground. Finally able to see the stunning landscapes not covered by fog was the perfect distraction to how much my feet ached. We arrived at Big Meadows, paid a $20 camping fee, and searched for the perfect site. The layout wasn’t my scene, with so many drive up sites where your car is literally next to your tent. But we found some sites where you parked your car and then walked a short trail to camp sites.
Ours was perfect. We were not right on top of people camping next to us, had a great view of the woods behind us, and yet were convenient to the car and bathrooms.
We set up camp, crawled into the tent, and enjoyed a much-needed two hour nap!
Awake and refreshed, we showered (coin-operated) and popped into the camp store for firewood, beer, and chocolate bars – a typical camping spree! For dinner we decided to roast hot dogs over the open fire, my personal choice for the last camping supper. Once we got all the necessary items, we got back in the car to head to our site when we noticed a car pulled over and a woman outside taking photos.
We slowed down and I peered up a hill to see what she was admiring. Then I saw it: a mama bear and three baby cubs! It was the most spectacular thing I have seen yet in the wild.
The last night was yet another beautiful night full of stars, S’mores, and a great campfire. It was the perfect ending to an all-around fantastic trip. Shenandoah National Park turned out to be a must-see destination offering so much to its visitors. Wildlife? Got it. Stunning views? There are so many to choose from! Serenity on a gorgeous, isolated trail? They all have it! No matter what you are looking for, this Virginia national park is ready to deliver. It is a great spot for families, couples, friends, and any individual looking for a positive getaway.