- 1). Adjust the stitch length to a long stitch on the serger machine, including the differential feed as suggested by your machine’s manual. Increasing or decreasing the differential feed adjusts the pace of the fabric as it moves through the machine. Most serger machines have a two feed dog mechanism and as you increase the setting, more fabric moves through the front feed dog. Most manuals include a fabric chart with recommended machine settings to facilitate stitching. As another option, change the presser foot to the elastic foot attachment.
- 2). Adjust the presser foot to a lighter pressure according to your brand’s recommendations. This step prevents the fabric from overstretching as you feed the fabric into the machine.
- 3). Change the thread cones to Spandex or nylon thread, which has natural stretch. This step is especially important if you are making costumes for dance-wear, swimwear or skating.
- 4). Cut a small piece of fusible interfacing with fabric scissors to stabilize the edges of the fabric. This step reduces rippled seams at the edges of the costume.
- 5). Apply trims on individual costume pieces prior to constructing the garment. For example, if you are applying stretch sequin along the neckline, hand-wind the bobbin with elastic thread for your sewing machine. Do not tug or stretch the thread while winding. Change the stitch to a zigzag stitch and the foot to a zigzag foot attachment. Machine stitch at a slower speed setting, slightly pulling the trim as you stitch it to the Spandex.
- 6). Place the right sides of the fabric together and push the fabric gently through the presser foot as the serger stitches. Place your finger behind the presser foot to catch the fabric, reducing unwanted stretch. Do not allow the stitched Spandex to hang over the table. Certain trims add weight to the garment and can cause unnecessary stretch and distortion while constructing the costume.
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