Design Soumak Stitch and Woven Wool Rugs
The decorative technique of soumak stitch can be traced back to 2000 BC, the date of some linen fragments found in Switzerland.
Later examples of the technique have been found in Egypt, Peru and Persia and it has also been used by many primitive people, including the inhabitants of New Caledonia and Guiana.
In appearance, soumak is decorative, forming a ridge raised above the level of the plain weave.
It is worked on the flat warp, that is, when there is no shed open.
In soumak, there are basically two wefts.
One is the ground weft that weaves with the warp to make a normal tapestry structure and the other is the soumak weft, which crosses the warp at intervals, wrapping round the warp more in the manner of embroidery than weaving.
The simplest form is in the fraction of two over one soumak.
This means the weft is carried over two warp threads and under one but there are other variations over which it can be worked four over two, in which the weft goes over four and under two, three over two, six over three and nine over three.
The closest texture is given by two over soumak and this is most used in woven wool rugs.
The other variations give very much longer floats (the threads which are not woven or caught into the structure), and would be impractical for floor rugs.
Method of working soumak 1.
Make two rows of plain weave.
2.
Pass the soumak weft over two warp threads and back under one, coming out between the weft and the plain weave.
3.
Continue in this manner across the warp.
This will make a band of raised weft that slants from bottom right to left.
4.
Make two rows of plain weave.
When weaving back from the other direction, pass the weft in the same manner, coming out between the soumak and the plain weave.
This makes a band slanting from bottom left to top right.
The two rows seen together make a series of 'v' shapes pointing to the left.
By working in the opposite direction, the reverse shapes are made.
Soumak can be worked in bands across the whole width of the rug or can be used to make blocks.
Starting and finishing the ends of the soumak weft for the woven wool rugs is achieved by weaving the end of the thread into the same shed as the next plain weave weft, for a short distance.
The soumak should not be woven to the selvedge; instead, work in the same way as for the selvedge when making tufts.