- 1). Check for other problems not related to the actual fret. Sight along the neck and make certain it is not twisted. Check for proper relief by looking down at the neck as if you were playing, while holding the low E string down at the first fret with the left hand and at the 12th fret with the right hand. Note that there should be a slight curve in the neck, towards your midsection. If the gap at the mid point between the first and 12th frets is more than 0.12 inch, there is too much relief. If there is no gap, there isn't enough.
A twisted neck requires a skilled technician. Improper relief can be addressed by adjusting the truss rod. In either case, it's not a sunken fret that is the problem. - 2). Check the height of frets on either side of the low fret using the same methods used when checking relief. It may be that they are too high and need to be lowered.
If so, remove the strings from the guitar. Cover the fingerboard around the frets with masking tape to prevent damage. Check to make sure the frets are fully seated; for any gaps under their edges, use the neck support and the hammer to tap the frets down into place. If they are seated correctly, use the small file to carefully remove extra fret material. Use the sandpaper with the sanding block to level and smooth the tops of the frets, not only to make them easier to play, but to ensure they are aligned in height with each other. Check your work by using the metal straight edge. Go slowly; once the fret is too short, it needs to be replaced. - 3). Replace the fret if the above checks and remedies do not apply. Place the guitar in the neck support. Heat the fret with the soldering iron for about ten seconds. Use the straight edge nippers to go under the edges of the fret, and pull it up. It should come up fairly easily. You will have to do the fret in sections as you will not be able to heat and pull the entire length at once.
- 4). Glue down any chips that broke out of the fingerboard when you removed the fret with superglue. Check the fingerboard around the empty fret slot for more severe damage; if the reason the fret was sunken was because the fingerboard was breaking down, it may be possible to build it back up with a combination of sawdust and glue. Apply sparingly. Once all the glue is dry, carefully sand the fingerboard flat with the sandpaper and block.
- 5). Ensure that the neck is very well supported directly under the spot where you are replacing the fret. Cut the fret wire to length. Test to make sure the tang of the fret, the piece that actually fits in the slot, will go in securely; it's best to pull the old fret first, then measure and select new fret wire based on what came out. If the tang is too thick, file it carefully down to size. Check tang depth also with a thin piece of metal dipped into the slot, then compare that to the tang. If the tang is too long, file it down.
- 6). Place one end of the fret wire into the slot. Carefully hammer it into place. Move along the length of the fret wire, rounding it down into the slot. Once it is firmly in place, use the straight edge to check that it is level with the surrounding frets. Use the file, sandpaper and block to crown and finish the fret to the appropriate level.
- Advertisement -
- Advertisement -