- 1). Scrape any existing weeds off the growing area (or solarize first - see Solarize Soil).
- 2). Amend your soil (see Choose a Soil Amendment), which will give your lawn the best chance to outgrow its weeds and pests. Add organic fertilizers (as directed by a soil test) and an inch of organic compost; till these into the top 2 inches of native soil.
- 3). Rake the area so that it's smooth and will drain well.
- 4). Choose the toughest lawn grass that will grow where you live - the one most resistant to common pests. Ask about your neighbors' varieties and also check the lawns around public buildings and other commercial sites that get little care and still look good.
- 5). Plant sod for the strongest start but use plugs, seeds and stolons to save money if you can water daily at first. Or consider a combination - sod for the public areas and an alternative in areas with less traffic and visibility.
- 6). Water newly planted turf daily; by the second year, you should reduce the frequency to once a week at most. Always water deeply but not to the point of causing runoff, and time your watering so that grass blades can dry by nightfall.
- 7). Begin mowing the lawn when it reaches 3 inches tall and then cut to recommended heights, depending on the type of grass you choose. Mow often enough so that you cut no more than a third of the leaf surface off each time.
- 8). Be vigilant about weeds and pests. Pull offenders as they first sprout and take action against diseases and insects that try to invade.
- 9). Make lawn care a calendar event for success - rake early, fertilize after green up and again at midsummer. Learn about biocontrols for specific lawn insects in your area and use them.
- 10
Spread a 1-inch layer of compost on the lawn each year in the spring to keep organic matter replenished.
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