Planting and Training

• 1). Perform a soil test at the site selected for planting. The site should have full sun exposure and be in a well-draining area -- not in a depression in the land or somewhere consistently soggy. Add lime to increase pH or sulfur to decrease, to between 5.8 to 6.5. Dig compost into the soil to improve drainage if drainage is poor.
  
  
• 2). Dig a hole the depth of the plant's root ball, wide enough to spread out the roots. Place plant in the hole and fill with soil, compacting soil around the plant to provide solid contact between roots and soil. Cut vines down to one vigorous stem about 1 foot long, leaving at least two buds. Water the plant in well.
  
  
• 3). Build a trellis for the plant by driving two 8-by-8-inch wooden stakes into the ground, 20 feet apart, centered about the vine. Connect these stakes with thick wire. The top of the trellis should stand about 5 feet high.
  
  
• 4). Tie main vine to the wire directly above with string, to help it to grow straight up. Pinch off side shoots, but not leaves, along the main trunk. When the vine reaches the trellis wire, cut it to stand 3 or 4 inches below the wire. Tie the vine strongly to the wire above to force the new "trunk" to straighten and tie new shoots to spread sideways along the wires.
  
  
• 5). Pinch shoots that grow off of the side "arm" vines to about 1 foot, every two weeks. During the winter, remove side growth from the trunk and cut back all shoots growing from the arm vines to the second or third bud. Remove dead wood.
  
  

Fertilization and Maintenance

• 1). Apply 1/2 lb. of complete N-P-K fertilizer in the early spring of the first year. Direct the application around the base of the plant, away from the vines. Side-dress in early summer with 1/8 lb. of high-nitrogen fertilizer. The second year, apply 1 lb. of complete fertilizer in spring and 1/4 lb. nitrogen fertilizer in early summer. After the second year, apply 2 to 4 lbs. fertilizer per year, based on soil testing results.
  
  
• 2). Prune during the dormant winter months after the first two years. Cut back all shoot growth to the second or third bud. Remove entire shoots if they are weak or too clustered. Fewer, stronger shoots will provide better fruit and prevent diseases caused by poor air circulation and fungal diseases. Remove tendrils that wrap around the trunk and arms.
  
  
• 3). Weed area around vines regularly during the first two years. Mowing is sufficient after the third year and the ground should never be deeply cultivated; the roots of muscadine plants grow close to the surface. Apply 2 to 4 inches of mulch yearly in the fall.
  
  
• 4). Harvest grapes by cutting the stem just above the fruits. The fruits will last for several days this way. Alternatively, the fruits can be shaken from the vines onto a large tarp. More bruising will occur when using this method, but it is a good option when making wine or jelly.