- 1). Design the shed to the dimensions of the blocks, which are approximately 8-by-8-by-16 inches; blocks actually are 7 5/8 by 7 5/8 by 15 5/8, to allow for half-inch mortar joints. Locate a shed site in a flat area with good drainage and lay blocks to test the dimensions. Set a base course on the ground. Lay a second course with corner block extending 4 inches to the outside of the corner block of the first course. This staggers the joint spaces and the two corner blocks: The second is laid on top of the first forms so that an upside-down L shape is the outside perimeter. A half-block will fit into this corner to fill the L space. Put blocks side by side for a dry-stacked plan, half an inch apart for mortar joints. Measure that outline with a tape measure.
- 2). Stake out the shed area, once you've figured the dimensions, with stakes at the corners and mason's twine between stakes. Measure this outline diagonally to get corners square; adjust the stakes until both diagonals are the same.
- 3). Dig a trench with a shovel 8 inches wide and 16 inches deep around that perimeter. Put 8 inches of gravel in the trench and compact it with a hand tamper. Excavate the inside part of the shed area 8 inches deep and lay down 4 inches of compacted gravel; this will make a gravel base with the outside edges 4 inches deeper than the interior.
- 4). Build forms of 1-by-8-inch lumber to fit the outline of the shed. Stake the forms with 2-by-4-inch stakes driven into the ground outside and against the forms to hold the forms upright when the concrete is poured. Place stakes every 18 to 24 inches with double stakes at the corners and nail boards together at the corners with a hammer and nails. Test the form with diagonal measurements to square it. Put a long board with a level on it from side to side and end to end and adjust the forms to get the tops level,
- 5). Pour concrete into the forms. Fill the outside trench first up to the top of the inside gravel base, then fill the rest of the form. Rake the concrete into all parts of the form. Drag a long board across the tops of the forms to level the concrete. Finish it with a mason's trowel once water bubbles start to appear on the surface. Cover the concrete with plastic and let it cure at least a week.
- 6). Drive stakes at the corners and run a string with a line level to make a straight and level guideline. Lay the first course of blocks in a bed of mortar on top of the concrete foundation. Mortar the ends of the blocks for mortared joints and set the ends firmly together for dry-stacking. Add courses up to the desired shed height, 10 courses for an 8-foot wall. Check each course with a level, both horizontally and plumb vertically.
- 7). Leave an opening for a door as you work. Use half blocks or blocks cut in two with a masonry saw to outline the sides of this door frame. Lay a steel lintel across the top of the opening, secure it in mortar joints on either side and then lay additional blocks on top of the lintel to the wall height.
- 8). Cover both sides of a dry-stacked wall with about an inch of surface bonding cement, spread over the face of the blocks with a trowel. Add steel reinforcing bars to either type of wall, through holes in the blocks, at each corner and at least every 2 feet along the wall. Fill cavities around those bars with concrete grout, poured into the holes. Set long bolts upright in that grout with the threads at the top to fasten wall cap boards.
- 9). Let the walls cure for a week and then place 8-inch cap boards over the tops using the bolts and nuts to fasten them through matching holes drilled in the wood. Build a roof frame with rafters or trusses, fastened to the wall cap. Deck the roof with oriented strand board (OSB) and cover it with roofing paper and shingles. Make a rough door frame by nailing 2-by-8s to the door frame blocks with 4-inch concrete nails. Install a prehung door by fastening its frame with screws to the rough frame.
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