- 1). Make sure the concrete subfloor is level to a slope of no more than 3/16 inch over a 10-foot span.
- 2). Clean the floor so it is free of dirt and debris.
- 3). Lay 6 mil. polyfilm or 3-in-1 foam underlayment over the concrete floor so the edges overlap each other by 8 inches for concrete subfloors that are either at grade (level with the ground) or below grade (in the basement).
- 4). Run the polyfilm or foam underlayment 4 inches up the perimeter wall.
- 5). Apply duct tape to the full length of the seams.
- 1). Place the first row of planks along one wall with a 1/4-inch expansion joint spacer against the wall every 12 inches and the tongue side of the plank facing out towards the room.
- 2). Apply Titebond wood glue to the upper groove of subsequent planks. Wipe glue away from the surface immediately. Do not apply glue to the tongue side. Use a tapping block and a hammer to tighten the side joints together. Use a pull bar and a hammer to tighten the end joints together. Do not overtighten, as this could cause unnecessary stress on the joints.
- 3). Cut planks with a circular or miter saw with a fine-toothed blade. Using coarse-cutting blades to cut planks will cause the wood to splinter and crack. Mark the cuts with a pencil and a speed square.
Start every second row with a cut-off plank that alternates 1/3 to 2/3 of the length of a full plank. Use the following pattern when installing the flooring:
Full plank - 2/3 plank - Full plank - 1/3 plank - Full plank - 2/3 plank - etc. - 4). Remove the expansion spacers from the perimeter when the whole floor surface is installed. Remove the extra 6 mil. polyfilm or foam underlayment running up the walls, and install moldings over the expansion joins to cover them.
- 5). Do not walk on the floor for 24 hours to allow the glued joints to dry.
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