- 1). Install a router lift. A router lift is a device that is mounted beneath the table and allows the router to be lowered and raised from above. A router table that requires you to reach under the table to change bits or set their heights can be dangerous and inefficient. The authors of Fine Woodworking's "Working with Routers" suggest installing a lift that can be raised high enough that the nuts that hold the router bit in place can be accessed from above the table.
- 2). Upgrade your existing table saw fence. Add a flat piece of MDF or plywood to the router side of your table saw fence. Drill holes in the MDF board to allow for easy mounting of a finger board, which will help prevent lumber from kicking back while being routed. Construct the MDF piece with a removable center insert --- the part of the fence that surrounds the router cutting blade. By making the insert removable, you'll be able to use a wider variety of bits with your router.
- 3). Construct a dust collection box. Mount a three-sided box underneath your router table and in line with the opening in the table where dust falls through. Drill a 2-inch hole in the bottom corner of the box and glue a 2-inch PVC pipe coupling in the hole. You can connect a shop vacuum with a hose to the coupling to suck out the dust.
- 4). Mount a horizontal routing attachment to the end of your table. Horizontal routing attachments allow the router to be operated in a horizontal position at one end of the table. Horizontal routing can make cutting tenons, raised panels and sliding dovetails much easier. Specialty woodworking retailers sell horizontal routing attachments, but according to plans in Fine Woodworking's "Working with Routers," they can also be made from common shop materials.
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